Is the Logomania Trend Over?

For my thirteenth birthday, I asked my mom for two things and two things only: a Canada Goose jacket and a Cartier Love bracelet. She laughed. Sure, the jacket was warm, and the bracelet was a beautiful piece of gold jewelry. However, the appeal of a designer brand went beyond the item. To me, and most people, designer items are a status symbol of money, luxury and social capital.

The fashion logo has a centuries-old history. The word's source is the Greek word “logos,” which can mean “word,” “reason” or “plan.” The logo is described by ancient Greek philosophy as the innately present and divine reason in the cosmos. A brand logo makes an attempt to visually communicate a company’s identity and ideals, much like the Greeks did in their endeavor to bring order to the cosmos.

With the designer logo came logomania, a trend in which the obvious branding is front and center on one’s clothes or accessories rather than tucked away in the corner of a T-shirt or zipper of the bag. The original creation of the logomania trend is up for debate. According to an article by Nss Magazine, some claim it started in 1892 when Georges Vuitton designed the world-renowned Louis Vuitton logo, which first appeared on trunks and suitcases. According to an article by Surefront, others say it started in 1925 with Coco Chanel using her initials as an interwoven “CC” on handbags and clothing items. Despite these different opinions, you cannot discuss streetwear and logomania without talking about one of the founding fathers of streetwear, Dapper Dan. Early in the ‘80s, the hip hop designer changed the meaning of the logo, meshing the street culture of Harlem with the luxury aesthetic of high-end fashion brands. Dan would use the logos (which is seen as controversial, as it pertains to counterfeiting) from brands such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Fendi in innovative ways. Dan would print logos onto leather jackets or silk screen them onto shirts. His designs were often flashy, creating a “more is more” vibe.

*Left: Olympic sprinter Diane Dixon wearing a custom mink-and-leather jacket, 1988. Right: Dapper Dan at his boutique in 1985, wearing one of his own creations.*

Logomania made its comeback on the runways of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Fendi and Dior, among others, with many of these fashion houses collaborating with Dan to create limited edition collections. These featured heavily logo printed T-shirts and bags.

*Gucci and Dapper Dan special collection*

Despite a slight resurgence of logomania, fashion on the whole seems to be entering an era of minimalism. This is in part due to the coronavirus pandemic, which shut down shopping and forced most to embrace a more mundane lifestyle. It is also due to a growing admiration for quiet luxury goods as people look to become more inconspicuous and show their wealth in more subtle ways. “The ‘90s sports-driven logomania trend is definitely starting to wane,” said Hannah Watkins, senior prints and graphics strategist at WGSN in a Refinery 29 article. “Branding is no longer brash, but instead executed in more sophisticated and subtle ways.” According to Refinery 29, “Today’s most coveted logos carry clout thanks to their social conscience.” Telfar bags, created by designer Telfar Clemens, are championed for their minimalist, unisex design and embrace of accessibility and inclusivity. Quiet luxury brands like Telfar and Loewe stay away from overly present logos or monogram prints and, instead, focus on comfort and sleekness.

Youth culture is also in a new aesthetic era where uniqueness is paramount. It’s about having a one of a kind item. The high-end fashion industry is catching onto this trend. These brands try to incorporate the casual grunge look at a high price point. At the R-13 runway, models wear clothing that is “tastefully dirty, with busted sneakers and a tattered vest that could have easily been cut from someone’s grandfather’s pullover.” These clothes evoke a homemade style, mimicking something that you just threw on despite being sold at a high price point.

Who knows where the fashion industry will go next? Today, the appeal seems to lie in the whisper rather than shout.